Berlin: Convergence of Past and Present
by Kate Baker
With one foot planted firmly in the past and the other decidedly moving forward, Berlin is a city of architectural wonderment.
After being bombed to smithereens, ripped in half for 40 years, and enduring nearly 20 years of reconstruction, Berlin has become one of the most sought after destinations for tourists in Germany. And it does not disappoint. Berlin is a virtual living history of architectural innovation and creativity. One can see examples of nearly every style from neo-Renaissance to neo-rationalism and everything in between including works by some of the most heralded modern architects of today.
Steeped in history, Berlin cannot escape its wretched past, nor has it tried. After reunification, the architectural development of this ravaged city was undertaken with a plan to reinvent itself as Germany’s capital and a world class European metropolis. Classical and neo-classical landmarks were restored to their pre-war grandeur and new construction developed befitting Germany’s fresh status as a unified country. Perhaps nowhere is the metaphor more visable than in the government buildings. Two sleek glass and concrete structures on either side of the Spree River joined by covered walkway high over the water represent the joining of East and West. If one looks closely, an outline of a large “D” lies across the outer facade of one of the buildings……a “D” for Democracy. Nearby, the Reichstag, built in 1894 and restored by British architect Sir Norman Foster, has been endowed with a glass and steel dome which overlooks the German legislature at work ……… a symbol of transparent Democracy.
An island in the Spree River, Museumsinsel, has some of the most dramatic classic architecture of the city, some of which are still under reconstruction. The neo-classical Bode Museum and the Baroque Berliner Dom have just recently been re-opened after massive restoration from damage during WWII. The site, with its five museums and the Berliner Dom, was added to the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list in 1999.
In 1789, Friedrich Wilhelm II commissioned the city with its most famous monument, the Brandenburg Gate, in the classic style of Greek Revival. The buildings around this square, called Pariser Platz, were totally destroyed during the WWII bombardment. City planners decreed that the new buildings should replicate the pre-war model, a decision which drew criticism from many corners. However, the plan was not to lose sight of the past nor forget its history, no matter how dreadful. “The Senate didn’t want to reinvent Berlin, but wanted to use the old buildings as a resource for the new Berlin,” said Hans Stimmann, the city’s building director.
One of the most visible and haunting landmarks is the Fernsehturm, a television tower built in the 1960’s at the height of the Cold War. It was supposed to represent Communist modernity, but East Germany had to hire Swedish engineers to build it. With an ironic twist, when the sun shines on the ball, the reflection forms in the shape of a cross causing Berliners to designate it as “the Pope’s revenge”.
Even “the Wall” has become an architectural destination displaying historical references near “Checkpoint Charlie”, graffiti art in Mauer Park, or just the stark gray segment recalling the brutality of the era.
Though not always listed in the tour guides, many architectural delights await the tourist who ventures out on the streets of Berlin soaking in its historical aura. From the “Arts and Crafts” movement to the austere Communist blocks, to classical buildings from the past to post modern architecture of today, Berlin is a feast for the eyes and the mind.
Originally published in Expat Travel and Leisure Magazine, Philippines, Vol I, No.4, 2008
