Jogjakarta in Central Java, Indonesia
Borobudur
We Begin in Nirvana
It is 6:00 AM and the dark of night has not yet lifted. We have grudgingly extricated ourselves from comfortable hotel beds for the one hour journey to watch the sun rise. We will ascend to the uppermost level of the largest Buddhist monument in the world. Borobudur, its very name as evocative as its history.
Armed with flashlights and cameras, we trudge across the dew-covered sprawl that will lead us to this mysterious place. In the dark, we can make out a shadowy monolith rising from the flat plain. Architecturally, it appears as an unimpressive solid, black lump, a rather squat, spiky one . We begin ascending the stone steps. And as night begins to fade to light, we marvel at the massiveness of the structure ……an unending steep stairway, galleries lining either side, and a bounty of stupas as we near the top. It is a relief to reach the summit and know that day break is near. By now, the curiosity to see where we are and to examine the structure more closely is overwhelming. Slowly, slowly darkness fades and, for a brief time, we are bathed in a magical pink light. The panorama reveals green, mist-shrouded mountains, two sets of twin vocalnoes which ring Borobudur. We can see the faded outline of the rising sun. Though we are many who have come to witness morning at Borobudur, a spiritual silence seems appropriate and only the occasional whisper is to be heard. By the time the sun has fully risen, we take stock of where we are and realize that we have already arrived in Nirvana.
Rather than a place of worship, the concept of Borobudur is a place of pilgrimage, appealing to the intellect, not the emotion. Remains of a monastic complex were found nearby, and it is believed that pilgrims came to Borobudur for contemplation, meditation, and to achieve enlightenment. The monument can be divided into three stages which correspond to the three stages of Buddhist thought on the journey to Nirvana. From the bottom of the structure, the student is guided along successive terraces moving upward each symbolizing a higher plane of consciousness. Along the corridors are more than 1,400 exquisitely carved narrative panels in stone relief which illustrate the life of Buddha. In order to follow the panels all in sequence, the pilgrim must walk around the monument 10 times for a distance of nearly 5 kilometers, the journey designed to represent the arduous physical and mental experiences one must achieve to attain enlightenment.
Upon completion of the third stage, the pilgrim reaches the uppermost level of the monument, Nirvana………..Enlightenment. And herein lies one of the many remarkable features of Borobudur. This physical expansion of space and light is meant to reflect the pilgrims’ newly acquired infinite view of the world. While viewing the bas-relief in the galleries, the student has concentrated on small details, sheltered from the outside world by the high walls; the open space at the top offers a vast panorama creating the sensation of universality, a truly remarkable genius of the design. To celebrate this attainment, the pinnacle of Borobudor is crowned by a very large stupa surrounded by 72 stupas with crisscrossed design allowing a view of a masterfully carved Buddha image in the mudra position, peacefully meditating through centuries of chaos. Albeit, many of them doing so headless.
Viewed from the air, Borobudur appears to have the design of a great tantric mandala, a sacred diagram used in Buddhist rituals. It consists of six concentric outer circles, square in shape, three circular terraces, and a dome or stupa at the center. The size is roughly 402 feet by 383 feet and stands 95 feet above ground level.
Historical information suggests that Borobudur was designed and built over a period of more than 50 years, between A.D. 780-850 and evolved through 5 different phases of construction. The bas-relief depicts a branch of Buddhism called Mahayana Buddhism. It is believed that the powerful Sailendra kings of Central Java, who ruled from the 8th to the 13th century, are responsible for the design and execution of the monument. And indeed, it would have taken a very powerful and wealthy kingdom to undertake such an endeavor. Over two million volcanic stones fitted perfectly together, intricately carved by skilled craftsmen, and the agricultural support needed to feed such a workforce, suggests the dedication of an entire population of the surrounding area.
Studies of the region show that the monument was a center for pilgrimage only about 150 years. In the 10th century, the population mysteriously abandons the area moving eastward towards East Java. This is possibly because of the eruption of surrounding volcanoes. All building in central Java came to a halt during this time. But no one knows what happened to the culture responsible for the monument, and, with their disappearance and no written record, its true meaning and purpose also remain a mystery.
From this point onward, there is only passing mention of the site historically until Sir Thomas Raffles becomes the new British governor of Java. Intrigued by exotic stories of ancient ruins, he commissioned and oversaw an expedition to explore this legendary mountain in 1814. By now, Borobudur was nearly covered in volcanic ash and vegetation. Throughout the next 150 years, attempts were made to preserve and restore this, the most unusual Buddhist monument in existence, often doing more harm than good.
The restoration of Borobudur merits nearly as much praise as the building of it. A young Republic of Indonesia, recognizing that one of its most important cultural monuments was in grave peril, asked UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) for advice on preventing more deterioration of Borobudur. The head of the Archeological Service of Indonesia, Professor Soekmono launched a “Save Borobudur” campaign in 1968 in an effort to organize a massive restoration project. With the help of UNESCO, the resources of 27 countries were enlisted to save the monument. Stone by stone, the temple was dismantled, a drainage system installed, relief carvings cleaned and treated for preservation. Borobudur was closed for 10 years. The restoration, eliciting unprecedented international cooperation, took 8 years of labor and twenty-five million dollars. Professor Soekmono personally oversaw the restoration work at Borobudur and is credited with the success of this massive project, requiring international cooperation and continued testing of new techniques which set new international standards for restoration work.
Having completed the journey to explore the mysteries of Borobudur, we relax with a coffee on an outdoor verandah, reflecting on the monument which looms stalwartly in the distance. It is an experience that requires time and contemplation to truly appreciate. Even after two separate excursions, I feel drawn to return yet again. Perhaps it is the pull of the ancient human quest for the ever-illusive Nirvana.
Sources:
Periplus Guides: Java, Indonesia
www.pbs.org/treasures of the world
www.buddhanet.net
First published in Expat Travel and Leisure Magazine, Vol I, No. 3, 2007
